TL-46-2/577 Update 3
Thursday, May 5th — Day 4 update
Today, we made it to Jerusalem — a perfect culmination to Yom HaAtzmaut, the Independence Day of the State of Israel. But that was just the second half of the day’s itinerary: the first half was the mind-opening journey to get there.
The day began with checking out of our hostel at Tel Hai, and then following breakfast, we hit the road. Our first stop was an off-road tour of the Golan Heights. Experienced guides narrated the sights as we went by abandoned Syrian tanks, Israeli military bases, wind turbines, and agricultural fields of kiwi, apple, and grape. We made it to a former Syrian base adjacent to the Purple Line (the dual armistice lines separating the State of Israel and the Syrian Arab Republic) and learned about the broader region — from the Sunni and Shia divide to the reasons why Syria and Israel went to war multiple times. Today, though, the Golan Heights is totally under the State of Israel’s jurisdiction, a subdistrict of the Northern District. As we listened to information at the base, we were surrounded by walls of graffiti that turned the military facility into a sort of public art gallery. Whether it was the military, political, cultural, or natural dimensions of the place, we all had an opportunity to connect on a mental and emotional level to our surroundings.
Next, we had lunch at a park between Haifa and Tiberias. It was prepared by Druze hosts who set out a buffet of stuffed grape leaves, roasted meats, pillowy rice, hummus, and various light items. We also celebrated Yom HaAtzmaut by playing trivia, covering topics from archaeology to modern technology. At just 74 years, the State of Israel is built on continuity spanning thousands of years.
From there, we took Route 90 through the Judea and Samaria Area on our way to Jerusalem. We passed by localities under the Palestinian National Authority as well as others under the State of Israel, stopping by Jericho at a roadside strip mall where Jews, Muslims, and Christians mingled as equals, as is the Israeli way. We enjoyed traditional coffee, freshly pressed juice, Turkish delight, and other treats before continuing to Jerusalem.
Arriving in Jerusalem, we were stunned to see the Old City appear ahead of us. Rather than go directly into local traffic, we made a stop at a vista point on Mount Scopus. We saw the famous highlights of the Old City before us, laid out like a diorama, and breathed in the moment as sunset approached. With daylight dwindling, we went to the hotel, checked in, and then met back downstairs to go for a night at Mahane Yehuda.
The evening was influenced by tragedy. We received news of a terrorist attack elsewhere in Israel, and our festivities were interrupted by a brief bomb scare. In every generation, there are forces that try to annihilate Am Yisrael (the nation of Israel) but every time, Am Yisrael Chai (the nation of Israel lives). Between Yom HaZikaron, Yom HaAtzmaut, and day to day life, this struggle not only for survival but for joyous prosperity is one that we came to understand a little more deeply, firsthand.
